Lake Atitlan-Panajachel (Where many have gone and stayed)

After a long and dreary 6 hour drive from Guastatoya, via Guatemala City, we’re finally winding our way down through the hills surround Lake Atitlan into the town of Panajachel. Panajachel is one of several small towns that surround this large lake which is itself surrounded by three volcanoes. There is a marked change in the weather as it’s much cooler at night. It’s 8pm and we’ve yet to have had dinner so after a quick hotel checkin we head several blocks over to a little joint purporting to be an Italian Restaurant and Piano Bar. As we head inside there’s a bit of a strange ambiance. There were a multitude of blue checkered tablecloths, the flooring made up of brick cobblestone type flooring. Not a fancy place by any means! As a group of 17 getting us together in one area was difficult but we managed. As I sat down at a dimly lite table I noticed movement across the tablecloth….turns out lots of little ant like bugs with green wings were making themselves home at my table. Great, was this going to be one of those horrid dining experiences? In any case we were all hungry and numerous large pizzas were ordered and to my surprise some of the best thin crust pizza I’ve had was soon being devoured.  As we ate a group set-up for their musical set… after all this was advertised as a Piano Bar! Soon we were being entertained by a long grey haired piano player, looking like a left over hippy (I think he might have been), accompanied by a young Guatemalan woman on a congo like drum and another guy playing a keyboard and a cymbal. The small restaurant was filled with old time classic of a jazz and blues genre along with a mix of Frank Sinatra. Turns out the piano player, and singer, was born to French and Spanish parents and spent time in Germany… to which his accent could be attributed. He’d come to Guatemala in the 1980’s and never left… As we were later to observe walking the streets of Panajachel he doesn’t seem to be the only one. After his set was done and the hat was passed for tips he was gone. One set, that was it…It seemed a bit strange but he was followed up by a female singer that can best be described as an older, thinner Guatemalan version of Janice Joplin. Again a short set followed by a pass of the hat and she was gone… We came to the conclusion they were working for tips only and they made the few Quetzales (Guatemalan Currency) they needed to survive and they were gone for the night.

Lake Atitlan-View From Panajachel

A good nights sleep and this morning we were out on Lake Atitlan taking a trip across the lake to the far side to a small town. This lake is surrounded by three dormant volcanoes and several small towns at waters edge. The view from the lake was incredible and things seemed to be going along well until the engine on our boat stopped working. For over and hour we drifted as the driver worked to fix the problem. It was clear it was electrical, what was also clear is our boat operator didn’t have a clue as to what the problem was or how to fix it. After an hour we got the engine started and were off to our town nearby. Not much of a town.. but more of a place for the touristas to be victimized by locals in the sale of goods made locally. I can say that I had some fine Fried Chicken (Pollo Fritas). The flavour and texture were excellent and Guatemala has hands down some of the best fried chicken I’ve ever had. In fact they’ve got a chain of stores named “Pollo Camparo” that we should try to get going in Canada. Beats the hell out of any fast food chain we’ve got for fried chicken.

Street Scene Panajachel

Back at Panajachel we spent time wandering the streets of this small town looking at various crafts and items available for sale. For any of you that like traditional craft items there’s certainly an abundance of them here. The art of bartering is also alive and well... Tomorrow we leave for Mexico City and another adventure.

As we complete this aspect of this adventure I find myself reflecting on my trip to Guatemala and realizing it's been one that has re-affirmed to me that poor or rich, people at their roots are pretty much the same. We may come from different cultures but our basic needs for food, shelter, and family and friends are the same. The locals we've met along the way including our home owners have been happy, gracious wonderful people. The pride that our home owners showed in what were nearly completed houses (homes) and their willingness to make a better place for their family, in spite of their financial circumstances, has made this trip unique. I know that Colin, myself and the 15 strangers who came together and worked through incredible heat have shared one of those life experiences that will stay with us forever. One that can only partially be put into words….

Final Days of Building

The last two days of building continue to be full of activities as we've all moved to the San Cristobal build site. It appears there were some issues that developed with the homeowner at El Jicaro and for a number of reasons the local Habitat affiliate determined it would be best to leave the site. Many of the team members were saddened by this outcome but none the less felt a sense of accomplishment for the work done to bring the house to that point. Even the homeowner was clearly saddened as the team members who he had gotten to know were leaving.

Having both teams working at San Cristobal has made this small site quite crowded. With the extra numbers the chores of adding fill to the base of each room, along with the usual need to move rocks, cement blocks and the ever present need for making concrete has been taken over by some of our teams members that were previously at El Jicaro. For those of us having been previously working at San Cristobal, it’s back to laying blocks, filling joints, preparing re-bar and moving fill (each room has to be brought up to level in preparation for concrete floors to be poured). Some of us are teetering high up on the sketchy scaffolding; others bent over mixing and shoveling.

Polly Audrey and Armado mix cement

The Walls are going up

More mortar please!

Water....need water

Hernan, the lead mason, has been opening up more and more, asking what things are called in English, that doesn't mean he's speaking English just that he's asking cómo se dice (how do you call) and the name of the tool. Like with our Spanish skills it has taken several repeats of questions before we've been able to remember the Spanish, or in Hernan's case the English version...re-bar or "weebar" is not an easy sound for a Spanish speaker to pronounce! For the last day or so I've been working with the second mason, Hernan's son Jonas. Until recently Jonas has said very little to any of the team members but even he is softening, and occasionally interacting with me as I prepare blocks in anticipation of his building needs. As is often the case, trimming of blocks and cutting of holes is required and the tools of choice, because there isn't anything else, is a hammer or a machete.  I ensure Jonas has the tools, mortar and cement blocks he needs and we quickly see the walls going up row by row. Hernan is overseeing the overall construction and Steve, who has skills in masonry, is continuing to build walls. Even Anna's brother Armado, the cement mixer with the gumboots, smiles and fills buckets of cement as team members request. This is perhaps the first day we've seen any interaction from him. We've been told he lives with Anna, was a boxer, and is a recovering alcoholic. The boxing and alcoholism may have had an impact on him but he's been here every day slugging away in the heat with the rest of us.

As the heat and humidity continues to rise we spell each other taking breaks under the mango trees on the property, Norm‘s thermometer hits 40 C in the shade. One of our team members Polly notes the mother hen has again passed with her brood of chicks, scratching at the remains of our sandwiches from lunch.

Over lunch Anna takes some of the team to visit a local church that she's very proud of. The rest of us remain at the work site having lunch and a siesta. Although we have our bag lunches, today Anna arrives with the famous Guatemalan Pollo Camparo (Fried Chicken...and a hell of alot better then Kentucky Fried Chicken). With Anna's limited income we're uncomfortable with this expenditure, but to not accept would be an insult so we graciously accept. Full from the "Pollo" we find ourselves sharing our bag lunches with Hernan, Jonas and Armado. From the amount they received I'd say that hadn't had that much for lunch in quite awhile.

Returning from lunch we continue with the build; sifting sand, moving volumes of it and cement blocks as needed. It seems we've moved all of these blocks at least three times. So be it!! While we've been working on building walls Hernan has formed up some of the corners and concrete is poured into them tying the walls together. The doorway at the front of the house is complete, as are many of the windows which were initially built too high and had to be re-worked to accommodate our homeowner's shorter stature.

Back in Guastatoya that evening we talk about what we've accomplished, the final day tomorrow, and what happened at the El Jicaro site that caused the team to leave.

Final Day
As we arrival at San Cristobal for the final mornings building I find myself thinking about how much we've accomplished, realizing that we won't be able to finish the houses we've sweat-ed and poured our blood into. Everyone is physically tired from the previous two weeks but it's been an uplifting experience that has had an impact on everyone of us. At San Cristobal we've taken a bare patch of earth that had only a simple cement block foundation and built a 5 room house that really only needs a few more course of blocks, a roof and a cement floor to be complete. To have started with only the shell of the foundation and to have seen it grow though our efforts has been incredible as has the looks on the faces of Anna and her family as they move closer to having this new home.

Hernan working on the front wall of the house

Jonas appreciating the work completed

As we completed the mornings work we learned that issues had been ironed out with our El Jicaro homeowner "Alex" and he'd be present for the farewell closing ceremonies. For team members that knew him and had worked at that site the cloud had been lifted and they be able to leave without lingering unresolved issues.In their absence, metal beams had been welded in place, the roof had been installed and a portion of the house had a coat of cement parged over the blocks. Following the closing ceremonies a number of that team visited the El Jicaro house and had a chance to see the current state of the build. So close to move in ready.

As an end to our build the local affiliate had arranged a farewell. A band had been brought in, their were local government officials giving speeches, and our families were given an opportunity to say a few words. It was clear by their comments, and the emotion in their voices and on their faces that we'd had a big impact in these two short weeks. A few gifts were given, a few words translated and it was time to say goodbye. Photos all around and it was time to go. As we left I found myself thinking, that was some of the hardest work I'd ever done. I'd do it again in a heartbeat !!!

Team Members look at El Jicaro House

Team El Jicaro with homeowner Alex

Alex in front of his near completed house

Anna and family receiving traditional HFH gifts

Alex receiving HFH sign and gifts

Eric with Anna and family

Our Band

Anna and family with Team San Cristobal

Eric and masons Hernan, Jonas and Armado

Our entire Guatemala Team with families

Week 2 - Building at San Cristobal and El Jicaro

The past few days have been incredibly busy. Our Habitat team have returned to Guastatoya after a few days in Antigua and surrounding area refreshed and eager to build. This morning, we began with breakfast, maybe with just a touch more quiet confidence and believing that neither the incredibly hot weather nor other circumstances would prevent us from completing as much as possible at each of our worksites. As we have done for the past few build days, our team travels by the van or truck and we head off to the worksites just past 7:00am with a 40 minute ride ahead to each of our build sites. As we arrive, the masons and family members are already onsite and working away.

Worksite El Jicaro
This morning began overcast , very humid and the temperature started off in the mid 30s but by the afternoon had climbed back into the 40C range. Homeowner Alex and the two masons were hard at work as usual. Our team missed the ever present children of Alex’s neighbourhood who today had returned back to school following the Easter Holiday break…

El Jicaro gables and bathroom foundation

The house is looking close to being ready to accept its’ roof. It has front and rear walls completed, the center interior wall stands at 16 concrete block courses high and will be the backbone, the main support for the roof system. The masons work on both gable ends in preparation for the next phase of the roof system. There was much cutting of various angled concrete blocks. In addition, work continued on the add-on bathroom. With the foundation complete the 1st course of blocks for the walls were laid today.

Norm, Audrey and Alex dig ditch

Alex finds water main

Several of our team members helped to dig a a trench, a meter deep and several meters long, for the water supply and sewage pipes from the new bathroom area out to the street. There they would tap into the existing main water. We may have tapped a little more than expected…oops….a bit of a burst from the water supply line which was later fixed and didn’t delay things by too much. Our first power tool was used on site today, an electric, small-bladed masonry block cutter. The electric power was obtained from one of Alex’s friendly neighbours with the use of a home made extension cord and it worked fine….most of the time.

El Jicaro siesta

Lunch was a welcome break and a few of our team from this site took the opportunity to have a siesta by the river. The day ended with both gable ends nearing completion, the water supply and sewage pipe trench completed and team members a little dirtier than when they started.








Worksite San Cristobal
Just as with the other worksite, San Cristobal began overcast , very humid and the temperature started off in the mid 30s but by the afternoon had climbed again with not as much breeze present today, as usual.

Mike surveys work done over weekend-San Cristobal

Many new course of block

Much progress had taken place at homeowner Anna’s new home, as the masons had unexpectedly worked both Thursday and Friday laying many courses of concrete block had been laid both around the exterior as well as interior walls.

Jonas (Mason) sets plumb/level Course

Eric laying course of blocks

Yin filling mortar in blocks

Steve laying course of blocks

Today the courses of concrete block would continue with the masons actually allowing members of the team to actually lay the courses after they set the plumb and level lines. As the day continued a need for more scaffolding was required and with bits of board and tree branches having already been used for this purpose more supplies were required. Our head mason, Hernan, told our translator Ed that we should slow down and go for a walk. Off Hernan went with Steve, myself and Ed in tow, not certain where we were headed. At his leisurely pace, and without providing further details as to where we were going, Hernan led us down a small road, into and up the other side of a gulch and up a hill to a small partly completed structure. Via our translator Ed, Hernan explained this was another small building he was working on. We didn't realize that this was more then a simple walk until Hernan pointed out additional planks of wood for the scaffolding needs back at our site.While at this area, Hernan took the time to point south across the valley at several small mountains, explaining he was born in a small town behind the 3rd hill. In later conversation Hernan provided further details regarding his life including his current residence as being located in a small Barrio (Neighborhood) 3 street east from our build site. This may well have explained why Hernan left on his bike on occasion..... truly a local worker.

Hernan and helper build scaffolding

Scaffolding (enter at your own risk)

As with the other build site, the further the house progresses, the higher the concrete blocks courses reach, the more wood and concrete block is needed for scaffolding which can make for less things there are to sit on….unless you can make a pile of sand your new recliner !! Work-safe BC would have a field day here with safety issues, or lack thereof. But this after all is Guatemala and you're on your own!! Scaffolding would be put up in a haphazard manner and if it didn't come down with a few quick jumps on it then it was presumed safe.

Steve and Ed have siesta

Eric and Debbie have a siesta

Mike having a lunchtime siesta

Polly having a siesta

Work in the heat and the sun continued to beat us down and lunch breaks often found team members at this site taking a siesta from the heat. Several team members wired more rebar strips and wood was used to build forms surrounding re-bar columns between sections of concrete block walls. This along with the horizontal re-bar laid every 5th course of concrete block tied the walls together to withstand frequent earthquakes that occur in Guatemala. At the end of the day, both teams felt pretty satisfied that we had accomplished as much as possible and looked forward to the goals and challenges that tomorrow would bring.

El Jicaro Build - Week One

I've been a bit delayed in posting details regarding the second build location as I've not been working at that location.  Colin and the other half of our group has been working there. This site was much further along having the foundation and many of the walls already completed to a fair degree. The family that we're working for at this location is Alex and his wife Anna and their 3 daughters Samantha,Brittany and Emily. In the first week the team at this locations worked on the following:

El Cristobal Build Site

Colin working on Wall

Audrey, Norm and Kristina building rebar

Bathroom Foundation 

Day 1- Some team members spent time cutting re-bar and tying it together with wire in preparation for laying it in place to give support to the cement block already in place. Others chiseled holes in cement block, laid the foundation and dug groundwork for the rest of the house! Labourous working extreme heat but the masons were friendly and everyone was eager to help and with language issues a bit of a problem everyone including our homeowner Alex was willing to provide on site, immersion Spanish lessons! The area around this build site is already developed and neighbors dropped by interested in the gringos working on the house. Even a local politician came by setting taking the opportunity to make a speech attempting to take political credit for the HFH build. His presence, and the group that gathered, caused quite a commotion in the area. By the end of the day team members felt they had accomplished a fair bit and the house was moving forward, both in the courses of block and re-bar going up and the foundation being dug for a add-on bathroom and laundry area. As expected the heat this day was in the 40's and a good indication of what could be expected daily.

Kristina chipping holes in block

Cement Mixing (one batch at a time)

Day 3 - Work today consists of prepping items for the masons such as chipping holes in the blocks, tying rebar, digging trenches, and mixing concrete. As we get to know our home owner Alex, we have been learning more Spanish as he is learning more English. Alex has an extensive vocabulary of food items that he learned from television, fettuccini, American cheese, tomato sauce, and other tasty items were discussed throughout the morning. Once we exhausted the food topic, we went to clothing and other common items, all of us learning new words and laughing at our common struggles in pronunciation. Our other team from San Cristobal joins us for lunch along the nearby Matagua river, today we are exceptionally grateful for the shade as the temperature has risen to more than 52C or 125F by 11 AM. We were unable to assess the temperature any further as Norm's digital thermometer blanked out from the heat. As we replenish ourselves, we share cheerful stories from the morning, the hard work that has been accomplished and our plans for the afternoon. After lunch it's back to work, it is hard to work in such heat yet the masons and Alex continue their fervent pace, hardly noticing the heat that zaps Gringo energy. By the end of this day the group has again felt a sense of accomplishment was this small house heads toward completion.

Semana Santa – The Making of an Alfombras

Antigua is crazy…The streets are busy at all times and the air is one of festivity….It must be Semana Santa (The celebration of Easter and the death and re-birth of Christ). It’s likely the best possible time to be in this great town when it transforms from a sleep town and tourist location to a destination point for the celebration of Easter. There are multiple processions daily winding their way through the old cobblestone streets of Antigua. For most of our group the morning was a free time to wander around, do some shopping and relax. After yesterdays climb up the Pacaya Volcano I’d certainly have enjoyed that opportunity but it was not to be.
Our group had decided we were going to create an Alfombras . Alfombras are traditional carpets created in the centre of the streets made from any combinations of pine needles, sawdust (natural and dyed) flowers and dyed coffee grounds. Locals create Alfombras of incredible designs and scale as I’ve shown in a previous blog. These creations have a short life, only existing until a religious progression passes over them trampling these works of art.  Needing supplies several of  us were enlisted to go get them. Off to the local Flower market we went to get pine needles, roses, and a small white flower that was something like baby’s breath.

Our Group and Our Alfombras

Once we returned we had to decide what it was we were going to create.  A simple design was decided upon and the creation of same began. It came out quite nice…a joint effort for sure.  Our distinct difference was the Habitat For Humanity symbol in the design.  Now it was simply a matter of waiting for the procession to come. Time, I’ve found is a relative thing in Guatemala. First we were told about 3pm… later it was going to be 6:30 and by the time the procession was in our area it was more like 7:30.  I’m starting to see this view of time as normal. Perhaps I’ll need therapy once back in Canada.



As the procession arrived the air became thick with smoke from metal canisters being carried by young and old men and boys dressed in black robes. As they solemnly walked by us they swung the metal canisters forcing more of the heavy smoke to be dispersed into the air and of course the lungs for all of the spectators which included our group. The procession continued and the black robed males were replaced by 2 single lines of woman in black dresses. These woman, of all ages, walked solemnly down both sides of the street as the smoke continued to hang in the air obstructing our view, filling our lungs and our eyes. As the procession continued the float carrying the Virgin Mary proceeded by our location. This Float is incredibly heavy and carried on the shoulders of 80 woman, clearly straining up it’s weight and moving side to side as they carry Mary solemnly down the dark streets by our location and out of our view. We’ve been told that these processions last between 12 and 13 hours winding their way through the streets. Quite and event that clearly has an impact to both tourists and the locals of Antigua.

Conquering Volcan Pacaya

Hiking Volcan Pacaya

Today was our first full day in Antigua and the day began with a trip to the base of one of Guatemala’s many volcano’s. The one we visited is known as Volcan Pacaya and is located about 1.5 hours from Antigua. As we travelled to the base and climbed up a dusty dirt road into the hills we found the landscape to be more lush and green. Passing Coffee fields, planted on steep slopes, we made our way up to the entrance to the Pacaya park and the beginning of a pretty hearty climb of 3 kilometres with a rise in elevation from 1800 to 2500 metres. You have a choice to climb yourself our hire a horse to care you about half way. The first 2 kilometres were fairly intense and the steeper part of the climb. I’ve been told it is similar to climbing the Grouse Grind. Between the heat and the vertical climb I’ve got to say I found it a bit of a hard climb. Perhaps if I’d only spent more time on the elliptical trainer I’d have had an easier time. 

Lava Field with Pacaya in background

Once above the tree line we continued to climb across an alpine like area and then a steep ascent up lava flow deposits that were immense in size and deposited as a result of the ongoing lava flowing from this active volcano. As we entered this area, and began the climb up and over the lava flows, I had the feeling of being on the moon…. a barren wasteland of black outcroppings. Moving, like the other tourists and members of our group we all head toward the point at which the lava is still flowing continuously from the volcano. Pacaya can be heard rumbling every few minutes…. The cooled lava under our feet is beginning to emit hot air coming with a unique kind of smell.. must be from the cooling lava beneath which apparently can take months to cool. Crossing these lava fields can be a bit difficult with the shifting lava rocks and boulders.. amazingly one of our group saw a woman wearing high heels walking up… That’s got to be the ultimate in inappropriate shoe apparel.

Colin and me-Flowing Lava in Background

At the top, or at least as far as your allowed to go, the heat underfoot, and in the air is intense. I could feel it through my runners and the hair on my legs felt like it was being scorched. None the less it was an incredible feeling to be standing within 10 feet of a small river of lava running down the side of the volcano. As a group we all made it up, for some it was harder then for others. After a time we head back down making our way a bit more quickly to the base area. The decent was easier perhaps, but some of us are certainly feeling our muscles and joints.  All I know is it’s time to get back in to the gym.. Check out the Photo Slideshow below.

Mayan Ruins and Antigua

Our build week is over and we’re headed to Antigua for Samana Santa for the Easter Weekend. Enroute we stopped at a Mayan Ruins Park named Iximche near the town of Tecpan. Interesting ruins which were part a Mayan City founded in the 1400’s . The excavated area is large then Mayan Ruins like Tulum in the Yucatan area in the south of Mexico. Much of these ruins are still un-excavated but those that have been are very interested. We spent a couple of hours wandering the site following which we had bagged lunches that we sat down and eat near the entrance to the park. This week being a holiday week for many Guatemalan families there were families having BBQ’s and many dogs wandering around. As soon as we sat down to eat we were surrounded by dogs, very polite but wanting food. I’m certain they recognized us as foreigners and came over to see if they could scrounge food… and what a surprise it worked fairly well for them.


Following lunch we continued on to Antigua which at this time of year is incredibly busy as hoards of people descend on this City. Walking the streets people are everywhere at all times of the day. Locals are creating carpets made from pine needles and sawdust called  Alfombras. These are made in the cobblestone streets of the city and have a very short life, taking many hours to create and are then trampled and destroyed during the processions that occur daily as part of Semana Santa. Antigua is incredibly busy and it doesn’t seem, what time of the day or night the streets are full of people and activities.