Monday, April 5, 2010

Week 2 - Building at San Cristobal and El Jicaro

The past few days have been incredibly busy. Our Habitat team have returned to Guastatoya after a few days in Antigua and surrounding area refreshed and eager to build. This morning, we began with breakfast, maybe with just a touch more quiet confidence and believing that neither the incredibly hot weather nor other circumstances would prevent us from completing as much as possible at each of our worksites. As we have done for the past few build days, our team travels by the van or truck and we head off to the worksites just past 7:00am with a 40 minute ride ahead to each of our build sites. As we arrive, the masons and family members are already onsite and working away.

Worksite El Jicaro
This morning began overcast , very humid and the temperature started off in the mid 30s but by the afternoon had climbed back into the 40C range. Homeowner Alex and the two masons were hard at work as usual. Our team missed the ever present children of Alex’s neighbourhood who today had returned back to school following the Easter Holiday break…
El Jicaro gables and bathroom foundation
The house is looking close to being ready to accept its’ roof. It has front and rear walls completed, the center interior wall stands at 16 concrete block courses high and will be the backbone, the main support for the roof system. The masons work on both gable ends in preparation for the next phase of the roof system. There was much cutting of various angled concrete blocks. In addition, work continued on the add-on bathroom. With the foundation complete the 1st course of blocks for the walls were laid today.



Norm, Audrey and Alex dig ditch
Alex finds water main

Several of our team members helped to dig a a trench, a meter deep and several meters long, for the water supply and sewage pipes from the new bathroom area out to the street. There they would tap into the existing main water. We may have tapped a little more than expected…oops….a bit of a burst from the water supply line which was later fixed and didn’t delay things by too much. Our first power tool was used on site today, an electric, small-bladed masonry block cutter. The electric power was obtained from one of Alex’s friendly neighbours with the use of a home made extension cord and it worked fine….most of the time.
El Jicaro siesta

Lunch was a welcome break and a few of our team from this site took the opportunity to have a siesta by the river. The day ended with both gable ends nearing completion, the water supply and sewage pipe trench completed and team members a little dirtier than when they started.








Worksite San Cristobal
Just as with the other worksite, San Cristobal began overcast , very humid and the temperature started off in the mid 30s but by the afternoon had climbed again with not as much breeze present today, as usual.

Mike surveys work done over weekend-San Cristobal
Many new course of block
Much progress had taken place at homeowner Anna’s new home, as the masons had unexpectedly worked both Thursday and Friday laying many courses of concrete block had been laid both around the exterior as well as interior walls.

Jonas (Mason) sets plumb/level Course
Eric laying course of blocks
Yin filling mortar in blocks
Steve laying course of blocks
Today the courses of concrete block would continue with the masons actually allowing members of the team to actually lay the courses after they set the plumb and level lines. As the day continued a need for more scaffolding was required and with bits of board and tree branches having already been used for this purpose more supplies were required. Our head mason, Hernan, told our translator Ed that we should slow down and go for a walk. Off Hernan went with Steve, myself and Ed in tow, not certain where we were headed. At his leisurely pace, and without providing further details as to where we were going, Hernan led us down a small road, into and up the other side of a gulch and up a hill to a small partly completed structure. Via our translator Ed, Hernan explained this was another small building he was working on. We didn't realize that this was more then a simple walk until Hernan pointed out additional planks of wood for the scaffolding needs back at our site.While at this area, Hernan took the time to point south across the valley at several small mountains, explaining he was born in a small town behind the 3rd hill. In later conversation Hernan provided further details regarding his life including his current residence as being located in a small Barrio (Neighborhood) 3 street east from our build site. This may well have explained why Hernan left on his bike on occasion..... truly a local worker.

Hernan and helper build scaffolding
Scaffolding (enter at your own risk)
As with the other build site, the further the house progresses, the higher the concrete blocks courses reach, the more wood and concrete block is needed for scaffolding which can make for less things there are to sit on….unless you can make a pile of sand your new recliner !! Work-safe BC would have a field day here with safety issues, or lack thereof. But this after all is Guatemala and you're on your own!! Scaffolding would be put up in a haphazard manner and if it didn't come down with a few quick jumps on it then it was presumed safe.
Steve and Ed have siesta
Eric and Debbie have a siesta
Mike having a lunchtime siesta
Polly having a siesta
Work in the heat and the sun continued to beat us down and lunch breaks often found team members at this site taking a siesta from the heat. Several team members wired more rebar strips and wood was used to build forms surrounding re-bar columns between sections of concrete block walls. This along with the horizontal re-bar laid every 5th course of concrete block tied the walls together to withstand frequent earthquakes that occur in Guatemala. At the end of the day, both teams felt pretty satisfied that we had accomplished as much as possible and looked forward to the goals and challenges that tomorrow would bring.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

El Jicaro Build - Week One

I've been a bit delayed in posting details regarding the second build location as I've not been working at that location.  Colin and the other half of our group has been working there. This site was much further along having the foundation and many of the walls already completed to a fair degree. The family that we're working for at this location is Alex and his wife Anna and their 3 daughters Samantha,Brittany and Emily. In the first week the team at this locations worked on the following:


El Cristobal Build Site
Colin working on Wall
Audrey, Norm and Kristina building rebar
Bathroom Foundation 
Day 1- Some team members spent time cutting re-bar and tying it together with wire in preparation for laying it in place to give support to the cement block already in place. Others chiseled holes in cement block, laid the foundation and dug groundwork for the rest of the house! Labourous working extreme heat but the masons were friendly and everyone was eager to help and with language issues a bit of a problem everyone including our homeowner Alex was willing to provide on site, immersion Spanish lessons! The area around this build site is already developed and neighbors dropped by interested in the gringos working on the house. Even a local politician came by setting taking the opportunity to make a speech attempting to take political credit for the HFH build. His presence, and the group that gathered, caused quite a commotion in the area. By the end of the day team members felt they had accomplished a fair bit and the house was moving forward, both in the courses of block and re-bar going up and the foundation being dug for a add-on bathroom and laundry area. As expected the heat this day was in the 40's and a good indication of what could be expected daily.
Kristina chipping holes in block
Cement Mixing (one batch at a time)
Day 3 - Work today consists of prepping items for the masons such as chipping holes in the blocks, tying rebar, digging trenches, and mixing concrete. As we get to know our home owner Alex, we have been learning more Spanish as he is learning more English. Alex has an extensive vocabulary of food items that he learned from television, fettuccini, American cheese, tomato sauce, and other tasty items were discussed throughout the morning. Once we exhausted the food topic, we went to clothing and other common items, all of us learning new words and laughing at our common struggles in pronunciation. Our other team from San Cristobal joins us for lunch along the nearby Matagua river, today we are exceptionally grateful for the shade as the temperature has risen to more than 52C or 125F by 11 AM. We were unable to assess the temperature any further as Norm's digital thermometer blanked out from the heat. As we replenish ourselves, we share cheerful stories from the morning, the hard work that has been accomplished and our plans for the afternoon. After lunch it's back to work, it is hard to work in such heat yet the masons and Alex continue their fervent pace, hardly noticing the heat that zaps Gringo energy. By the end of this day the group has again felt a sense of accomplishment was this small house heads toward completion.

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Semana Santa – The Making of an Alfombras

Antigua is crazy…The streets are busy at all times and the air is one of festivity….It must be Semana Santa (The celebration of Easter and the death and re-birth of Christ). It’s likely the best possible time to be in this great town when it transforms from a sleep town and tourist location to a destination point for the celebration of Easter. There are multiple processions daily winding their way through the old cobblestone streets of Antigua. For most of our group the morning was a free time to wander around, do some shopping and relax. After yesterdays climb up the Pacaya Volcano I’d certainly have enjoyed that opportunity but it was not to be.
Our group had decided we were going to create an Alfombras . Alfombras are traditional carpets created in the centre of the streets made from any combinations of pine needles, sawdust (natural and dyed) flowers and dyed coffee grounds. Locals create Alfombras of incredible designs and scale as I’ve shown in a previous blog. These creations have a short life, only existing until a religious progression passes over them trampling these works of art.  Needing supplies several of  us were enlisted to go get them. Off to the local Flower market we went to get pine needles, roses, and a small white flower that was something like baby’s breath.

Our Group and Our Alfombras
Once we returned we had to decide what it was we were going to create.  A simple design was decided upon and the creation of same began. It came out quite nice…a joint effort for sure.  Our distinct difference was the Habitat For Humanity symbol in the design.  Now it was simply a matter of waiting for the procession to come. Time, I’ve found is a relative thing in Guatemala. First we were told about 3pm… later it was going to be 6:30 and by the time the procession was in our area it was more like 7:30.  I’m starting to see this view of time as normal. Perhaps I’ll need therapy once back in Canada.



As the procession arrived the air became thick with smoke from metal canisters being carried by young and old men and boys dressed in black robes. As they solemnly walked by us they swung the metal canisters forcing more of the heavy smoke to be dispersed into the air and of course the lungs for all of the spectators which included our group. The procession continued and the black robed males were replaced by 2 single lines of woman in black dresses. These woman, of all ages, walked solemnly down both sides of the street as the smoke continued to hang in the air obstructing our view, filling our lungs and our eyes. As the procession continued the float carrying the Virgin Mary proceeded by our location. This Float is incredibly heavy and carried on the shoulders of 80 woman, clearly straining up it’s weight and moving side to side as they carry Mary solemnly down the dark streets by our location and out of our view. We’ve been told that these processions last between 12 and 13 hours winding their way through the streets. Quite and event that clearly has an impact to both tourists and the locals of Antigua.

Friday, April 2, 2010

Conquering Volcan Pacaya



Hiking Volcan Pacaya

Today was our first full day in Antigua and the day began with a trip to the base of one of Guatemala’s many volcano’s. The one we visited is known as Volcan Pacaya and is located about 1.5 hours from Antigua. As we travelled to the base and climbed up a dusty dirt road into the hills we found the landscape to be more lush and green. Passing Coffee fields, planted on steep slopes, we made our way up to the entrance to the Pacaya park and the beginning of a pretty hearty climb of 3 kilometres with a rise in elevation from 1800 to 2500 metres. You have a choice to climb yourself our hire a horse to care you about half way. The first 2 kilometres were fairly intense and the steeper part of the climb. I’ve been told it is similar to climbing the Grouse Grind. Between the heat and the vertical climb I’ve got to say I found it a bit of a hard climb. Perhaps if I’d only spent more time on the elliptical trainer I’d have had an easier time. 
Lava Field with Pacaya in background
Once above the tree line we continued to climb across an alpine like area and then a steep ascent up lava flow deposits that were immense in size and deposited as a result of the ongoing lava flowing from this active volcano. As we entered this area, and began the climb up and over the lava flows, I had the feeling of being on the moon…. a barren wasteland of black outcroppings. Moving, like the other tourists and members of our group we all head toward the point at which the lava is still flowing continuously from the volcano. Pacaya can be heard rumbling every few minutes…. The cooled lava under our feet is beginning to emit hot air coming with a unique kind of smell.. must be from the cooling lava beneath which apparently can take months to cool. Crossing these lava fields can be a bit difficult with the shifting lava rocks and boulders.. amazingly one of our group saw a woman wearing high heels walking up… That’s got to be the ultimate in inappropriate shoe apparel.
Colin and me-Flowing Lava in Background
At the top, or at least as far as your allowed to go, the heat underfoot, and in the air is intense. I could feel it through my runners and the hair on my legs felt like it was being scorched. None the less it was an incredible feeling to be standing within 10 feet of a small river of lava running down the side of the volcano. As a group we all made it up, for some it was harder then for others. After a time we head back down making our way a bit more quickly to the base area. The decent was easier perhaps, but some of us are certainly feeling our muscles and joints.  All I know is it’s time to get back in to the gym.. Check out the Photo Slideshow below.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Mayan Ruins and Antigua

Our build week is over and we’re headed to Antigua for Samana Santa for the Easter Weekend. Enroute we stopped at a Mayan Ruins Park named Iximche near the town of Tecpan. Interesting ruins which were part a Mayan City founded in the 1400’s . The excavated area is large then Mayan Ruins like Tulum in the Yucatan area in the south of Mexico. Much of these ruins are still un-excavated but those that have been are very interested. We spent a couple of hours wandering the site following which we had bagged lunches that we sat down and eat near the entrance to the park. This week being a holiday week for many Guatemalan families there were families having BBQ’s and many dogs wandering around. As soon as we sat down to eat we were surrounded by dogs, very polite but wanting food. I’m certain they recognized us as foreigners and came over to see if they could scrounge food… and what a surprise it worked fairly well for them.


Following lunch we continued on to Antigua which at this time of year is incredibly busy as hoards of people descend on this City. Walking the streets people are everywhere at all times of the day. Locals are creating carpets made from pine needles and sawdust called  Alfombras. These are made in the cobblestone streets of the city and have a very short life, taking many hours to create and are then trampled and destroyed during the processions that occur daily as part of Semana Santa. Antigua is incredibly busy and it doesn’t seem, what time of the day or night the streets are full of people and activities.

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

San Cristobal Build

The last two days at this site have been incredibly busy. Each morning we start with a group breakfast at 6:30 AM following which we take our packed lunches and pile into our van and pick-up truck for a 30 to 40 minute ride out to our build sites. As we arrive the workers and families we’re building for are already onsite and working away.

View from Building Site
Anna and her younger daughter Karen are already working away as are the 2 masons and their labourer. Because it’s Semana Santa (Easter week) the younger sons of our head mason Hernan has his two boys working with him on our site. I think they’d rather be in school but here they are working away. The first day we arrived we found that only the exterior frame of the building and a few trenches had been dug for the structural walls. This was due to the steep grade that required the exterior to be built up before the foundation could be done.  This grade will certainly make the build a bit more difficult but the advantage of the steep terrain is that Anna and her family have an incredible view from their property.

Off-loaded Blocks Needing Moving
Day 1 - As I’d previously mentioned was made up of slogging cement blocks and sand up the hill to the build area. As well we were digging trenches and mixing cement which along with large rocks were used to create the foundation structure for each of the 5 rooms of the house. Once these were in place cement blocks with open channels were placed and these were filled with re-bar and cement.




Foundation Being Filled
Day 2 – This was another scorcher as we continued to put in foundation and first blocks with re-bar. I spent much of the day learning the Guatemalan way to mix concrete… believe me they have a specific way to do this that is very manual in nature. Much of my day was spent in the sun mixing batch after batch. Our team spent the day building re-bar structure needed and hauling large quantities of sand and cement block up the hill. As the courses of block were placed in we were shown how to follow behind and fill in with mortar the gaps left between the blocks. By the end of this day we had some walls going up and were feeling like we were progressing. By 3pm we were done…. And I mean done, like toast… You can’t imagine working in the sun and heat like this all day. Temperatures recorded at our other build site were 34 degrees in the shade and in the high 40’s to 52 degrees in the sun.

Building at Completion Day 3
Day 3 – Another blistering day in the sun. We were again busy as we spent much of the say, along with the masons and their workers mixing cement and laying blocks to create the interior walls. Overnight fill had been brought in so fill some of the rooms which had four foot drops due to the grade of the property. The Mason decided that myself and one of my co-volunteers Steve (from Ontario) were going to be given the honour of laying blocks. Apparently this is something the masons are often not willing to do and suggested we’d earned his trust as he was willing to show us how to do this. Our Mason Hernan would apply mortar to the previous course of blocks at each end of the wall being built and place the two blocks setting the level for the course. He’d then run a level and plumb line and it was up to Steve and I, working on different walls by ourselves, to place the mortar (butter the previous course of blocks) and then set the new blocks adjusting them for both level and height and plumb. We weren’t the only ones setting the blocks as Hernan and the other mason also continued on. As we went a long other members of our team would follow behind, filling in with mortar the areas between the blocks. We accomplished a fair bit by the end of the day with many of the interior walls 4’ to 5’ high as well as starting on the exterior walls. Tomorrow it’s off for the Easter break and a bit of needed relaxation in Antigua.

Monday, March 29, 2010

1st day of building

Today was our first build day… and what a day it was.  Our work day begins at 7am and ends at 3pm. This is being done to get our work started before the heat of the day which we are continually told is going to be very hot…and today it was. Colin and I are assigned to separate builds as I’d mentioned previously.
Our build is located in an area nearby Guastatoya, called Cristobal and is just above the highway on a steep hillside (which is going to be lots of fun for lugging things up to the build site).  Our other group, including Colin, are building about 2 km away in an area named Jicaro close by the Matagua River.  These spots are about 30 minutes outside of Guastatoya.

View uphill to San Cristobal Build
We arrived to our build site to find the workers, including our mason, already hard at work. Because of the hilly terrain the foundation is taking much longer then the other build site and is only at the preliminary stages with the outside concrete blocks in place and trenches and re-bar columns protruding from the outside walls. This property is owned by Anna who lives there with her 2 daughters Roxanna (17) and Karen (11). The property already has a small house that Anna, her daughters and her elderly mother reside in. The build site is just above this small house and is quite exposed with incredible views of the Valley below, mountains in the distance and the Matagua River meandering through below. Certainly what we’d consider a view property. The land also has mature mango trees, one of which is full of ripe fruit. The build area is exposed and means it can be very hot but fortunately much of the day we had a nice breeze providing relief from the heat.

Homeowner Anna and Current House
Because of the delays in construction most of the materials were yet to be delivered. That meant today was a day full of receiving and stacking concrete blocks, moving sand needed for mixing cement, and the cutting bending and tying together of re-bar. The pick-up truck delivering the blocks made about 7 trips, providing approx. 1800 blocks, but could only deliver them part way up the roadway to the location of the new home due to the steep grade.

Much of the day was spent carrying them from this off-load site with much more to be done tomorrow. Our homeowner “Anna” was hard at it all day, working with us and carrying 2 heavy blocks at a time up to the building area where we’re moving them to.  Incredible for a woman in her 40’s who can’t be over 4’6”. By the end of the day we’re all sore but happy with what we accomplished today and the family we’re working with and for. Tomorrow should be another interesting day, a combination of moving more sand and blocks up to the build area and hopefully the beginnings of the building of walls.