Lake Atitlan-Panajachel (Where many have gone and stayed)

After a long and dreary 6 hour drive from Guastatoya, via Guatemala City, we’re finally winding our way down through the hills surround Lake Atitlan into the town of Panajachel. Panajachel is one of several small towns that surround this large lake which is itself surrounded by three volcanoes. There is a marked change in the weather as it’s much cooler at night. It’s 8pm and we’ve yet to have had dinner so after a quick hotel checkin we head several blocks over to a little joint purporting to be an Italian Restaurant and Piano Bar. As we head inside there’s a bit of a strange ambiance. There were a multitude of blue checkered tablecloths, the flooring made up of brick cobblestone type flooring. Not a fancy place by any means! As a group of 17 getting us together in one area was difficult but we managed. As I sat down at a dimly lite table I noticed movement across the tablecloth….turns out lots of little ant like bugs with green wings were making themselves home at my table. Great, was this going to be one of those horrid dining experiences? In any case we were all hungry and numerous large pizzas were ordered and to my surprise some of the best thin crust pizza I’ve had was soon being devoured.  As we ate a group set-up for their musical set… after all this was advertised as a Piano Bar! Soon we were being entertained by a long grey haired piano player, looking like a left over hippy (I think he might have been), accompanied by a young Guatemalan woman on a congo like drum and another guy playing a keyboard and a cymbal. The small restaurant was filled with old time classic of a jazz and blues genre along with a mix of Frank Sinatra. Turns out the piano player, and singer, was born to French and Spanish parents and spent time in Germany… to which his accent could be attributed. He’d come to Guatemala in the 1980’s and never left… As we were later to observe walking the streets of Panajachel he doesn’t seem to be the only one. After his set was done and the hat was passed for tips he was gone. One set, that was it…It seemed a bit strange but he was followed up by a female singer that can best be described as an older, thinner Guatemalan version of Janice Joplin. Again a short set followed by a pass of the hat and she was gone… We came to the conclusion they were working for tips only and they made the few Quetzales (Guatemalan Currency) they needed to survive and they were gone for the night.

Lake Atitlan-View From Panajachel

A good nights sleep and this morning we were out on Lake Atitlan taking a trip across the lake to the far side to a small town. This lake is surrounded by three dormant volcanoes and several small towns at waters edge. The view from the lake was incredible and things seemed to be going along well until the engine on our boat stopped working. For over and hour we drifted as the driver worked to fix the problem. It was clear it was electrical, what was also clear is our boat operator didn’t have a clue as to what the problem was or how to fix it. After an hour we got the engine started and were off to our town nearby. Not much of a town.. but more of a place for the touristas to be victimized by locals in the sale of goods made locally. I can say that I had some fine Fried Chicken (Pollo Fritas). The flavour and texture were excellent and Guatemala has hands down some of the best fried chicken I’ve ever had. In fact they’ve got a chain of stores named “Pollo Camparo” that we should try to get going in Canada. Beats the hell out of any fast food chain we’ve got for fried chicken.

Street Scene Panajachel

Back at Panajachel we spent time wandering the streets of this small town looking at various crafts and items available for sale. For any of you that like traditional craft items there’s certainly an abundance of them here. The art of bartering is also alive and well... Tomorrow we leave for Mexico City and another adventure.

As we complete this aspect of this adventure I find myself reflecting on my trip to Guatemala and realizing it's been one that has re-affirmed to me that poor or rich, people at their roots are pretty much the same. We may come from different cultures but our basic needs for food, shelter, and family and friends are the same. The locals we've met along the way including our home owners have been happy, gracious wonderful people. The pride that our home owners showed in what were nearly completed houses (homes) and their willingness to make a better place for their family, in spite of their financial circumstances, has made this trip unique. I know that Colin, myself and the 15 strangers who came together and worked through incredible heat have shared one of those life experiences that will stay with us forever. One that can only partially be put into words….